Mr Food Recipe - These days we tend to take macaroni for granted, relegating it to a
very basic level of eating -- comfort food, at best. But it deserves
better. There are places where they still remember that even very basic
and simple pasta dishes can, by careful treatment, be elevated to far
higher-than-usual status.
One of these places is Switzerland, the home of Älplermagrone or Alpler Macaroni . The name doesn't translate perfectly into English. Magrone is of course macaroni, but Älpler
doesn't only refer to the mountains and the people who live there, but
more specifically to the men who would go up into the high pastures with
the cows every summer. They stayed there for months at a time and lived
on either what they had brought up with them on the upward journey, or
what they got from the cows they were tending.
What they obviously had lots of was milk, butter and cheese (because
they also made cheese every day from the fresh milk). The way this dish
is prepared emphasizes how much milk they had: enough to boil the
macaroni in, instead of water. And this treatment produces a
surprisingly rich and tasty base for a dish that would really stick to
the ribs at the end of a hard day's work in the open air.
The cheese of preference for this very exalted version of mac-and-cheese would naturally be Bergkaese,
one of the hundreds of matchless mountain cheeses made by small dairies
and smallholders in all the great Alpine regions. The Swiss cheese Sbrinz
also works well. But if you can't get these, Emmental, Gruyere or (if
you can get it) Appenzeller cheeses will all still produce a really nice
result.
Fried onions to top it all off, and (often) apple slices or applesauce on the side, complete the dish.
Ingredients:
- 6 cups milk
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 1 pound macaroni (long straight ones are most authentic)
- 1 1/4 cups mountain cheese (Bergkaese), Sbrinz, Emmenthaler, Gruyere, or Appenzeller, shredded
- 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
- 8 tablespoons butter
- 2 onions, sliced
- 3 cloves garlic, chopped
Preparation:
Bring the milk and one tablespoon of salt to a boil. Add the
noodles, reduce the heat, and cook over a low heat until done, stirring
occasionally. The noodles should absorb enough milk so that the dish is
still moist (if necessary, add more milk).
Empty the noodles into a pre-heated bowl: mix in cheese and pepper.
Top with onions which have been sauteed in butter, and garlic cloves.
The aelplermagrone can be served at this point: often a
green salad is served alongside. But if you prefer, you can also turn
the mixture into a casserole and bake it in the oven long enough to
brown the top nicely -- usually about twenty minutes at 400° F / 200° C.
A variant on the theme: in the Swiss canton of Nidwalden,
Aelplermagrone is prepared with equal amounts of macaroni and potatoes
(peeled and diced). Dried apple slices are traditionally served as a
side dish.
Makes four servings.